Wednesday, 18 April 2007
I have been wanting to make this for ages, but have been a little apprehensive because I need to do a full bust adjustment. The problem is, it has princess seams and I still am not quite happy with my previous attempts. I have been searching the net to see if anyone else has made it and if so how it looked, but I have had no luck. Therefore I bought 10 metres of green 1/4" poly cotton and decided to give it a go.
First was to trace the pattern and start the full bust adjustment. All went OK until I realised that the method I was using altered the waist as well??? I was using the very well respected and highly recommended "Fit for Real People" by Palmer & Alto. I have reread and reread the method and no matter which way I look at it the method definitely increases the waist as well as the bust! So I came up with my own modification and graded the waist back in.
I tried it on for the first real fitting. One of the biggest problems was the shoulders seemed to be very wide, but after a closer look it really was that I have a reasonably narrow back and by taking it in quite a lot in the centre of the back the shoulders fit much better.
I also repositioned the zip to the side seam for the mock up as I felt it was easier to place and adjust.
This is the first try on after the facings were attached. The fit was looking OK so I decided to continue. When I make it again I will try to increase the width of the front panel across the bust as I think the princess seams are not quite in the right place.
This is the front after the sleeves had been attached. It was a very unusual design as the sleeves are attached to the shoulder of the under yoke and stitched to the body of the dress under the arm, quite an unusual design.
A close up of the upper back the pins are holding the yoke to the dress. I still have to attach it to the facing to anchor it.
The sleeves will need to be adjusted slightly as they are a little tight around my biceps and it makes it almost impossible to take off at the moment.
I am still undecided whether to fix the sleeves and level and hem the skirt so it is wearable or not. Is it a little too 50's house wife crossed with country hick?
I am going to work on a more suitable crinoline to give the skirt a bit more volume.
Then I need to decide if the design is suitable to be made into a dress to wear to a black tie wedding and if so what fabric should I use? This dress is quite a bit shorter than the actual pattern which is more like a lower calf length.
Suggestions are welcome.
Posted by Cat at 17:19:00